Process of making shoes.



W. J. KELLY.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES APPLICATION FILED APR. 6. 1915.

1 ,2 1 4,3 1 6 Patented Jan. 30, 1917.

"niarrnn sa a rns Parana opinion WILLIAM J. KELLY, OF READING,PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON,NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

Application filed April 6, 1915.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, IVILLIAM J. KELLY, a citizen of the United States,residing at Reading, in the county of Berks and State of Pennsylvania,have invented certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes, ofwhich the following description, in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawingsindicating like parts in the several figures.

Ihis invention relates to processes of making shoes and particularly tolasting processes.

An object of the invention is to secure an improved lasting result inthe lasting step of shoe manufacture. The process is herein shown ascarried out in the manufacture of stitch-clown shoes, but it will beunderstood that the invention is not restricted to the illustrated useand that in so far as it may be utilized in the manufacture of othertypes of shoes such use of the process is intended to be included withinthe-scope of the protection claimed.

In the lasting of shoes it is desirable that the upper be stretchedconsiderably and that it be fitted closely to the last, and to insure asatisfactory lasting result it is necessary that the fastenings used tosecure the upper in lasted position are effective for this purpose. Inthe lasting of stitch-down shoes and also of welt shoes it is bothdesirable and requisite that the fastenings not only shall securely holdthe upper in lasted posi tion but that they shall be so located and ofsuch dimensions that they will not interfere with the succeedingoperations on the shoe, particularly the sole attaching operation.It'has been found that the most effective individual fastening for usein lasting stitchdown shoes is the staple, such use of the staple in apractical process of lasting stitchdowns by which the upper is securedexactly in lasted position being first disclosed in United StatesLetters Patent No. 1,117 ,086, granted November 10, 1911, on. anapplication of Adam H. Prenzel, and staples have many advantages forfastening an upper in lasted position in the manufacture of weltedfootwear, as set forth in United States Let- Specification of LettersPatent.

Patented J an. 30, 191%.

Serial No. 19,490.

ters Patent No. 1,163,596, granted December 7, 1915, on an applicationof James Cavanagh. In carrying out the processesdiselosed in saidLetters Patent it is customary to use a staple of comparatively finewire and to drive this staple tightly down into the angle of the upper,and in lasting shoes of ordinary construction the lasting resultobtained by the use of this staple alone is very satisfactory. Whenlasting unusually stiff leather, like patent leather, or when lastingleather which is not strong enough to be secured against the lastingstrain by ordinary fastening means, difficulty is sometimes experienced, particularly about the toe portion of the last in securingthe desired lasting result, for example, due to the tendency of thefastenings to pull through the upper.

A further object of the invention is a process of lasting which willfacilitate the shaping of the upper to the last and the securing of theupper exactly in lasted position.

In carrying out the process of this inven tion the machine shown in myco-pending application Serial No. 18,5 10 filed April 1, 1915, mayconveniently be used, and in the accompanying drawings, illustrating theprocess, Figure 1 shows in perspective a portion of a shoe lasted inaccordance with the process; and Fig. 2 shows sufficient of the machineof my co-pending application to illustrate the manner of carrying outthe process.

In practising the process, the preferred procedure is to assemble uponthe last an upper 2 and a middle sole or slip sole 1 which extendssomewhat beyond the edge of the last. Ihe parts being assembled upon thelast, the operator wipes the upper down the side of the last and forcesthe angle of the upper into the angle between the last and the solemargin, and then inserts a staple 6 substantially in the vertex of theupper angle, this staple being so driven that it will pass through theslip sole and will have its ends clenched upon the bottom face of theslip sole.

' The operator usually begins the lasting operation by stretching theupper over the last at each end of the tip seam 8, locating the tip seamcarefully, and then securing the'upper to the last upon each side nearor at the tip seam. He then proceeds in either direction from the tipseam, usually lasting back toward the shank first and then about the toeend of the upper.

When the operator experiences difficulty in securing the upper tightlyin lasted post tion by means of the staples alone, or when he desires tosecure the upper more effectively and permanently in lasted position, hecauses a cord 10 or similar means to be forced into the angle of theupper and into the anglebetween the last and the sole margin at the sametime that the wiping and stretching of the upper over the side of thelast is effected, the cord being preferably led over the end of thelasting tool so that said tool carries the cord into said angle.Moreover, as more fully described in my copending applicationhereinabove identified, the cord is preferably so located with respectto the staple guiding means, or with respect to the staple guide in saidlasting tool, that the staple will secure the cord, whereby the cordacts both as auxiliary upper securing means and as means for preventingthe staples from pulling through the upper.

In Fig. 2 of the drawings, the lasting tool 193 of my co-pendingapplication is shown partly in section to illustrate the manner oflocating the cord and staple, the cord being led from a spool 212 havinga take-up connection with a frictionally retarded shaft 224, more fullydescribed in my co-pending application, over a guide wheel 214 andthrough the loop 216 of a second take-up 218 adjacent to the lastingtool, said lastmentioned take-up, as more fully described in myco-pending application, serving to control the cord and prevent itslooping during the upper wiping and stretching operations.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a la st an upper and a sole, effecting a step-bysteplasting operation by successively engaging said upper by a lasting tool,over the upper engaging surface of which a cord is laid, and forcingsaid upper into lasted position upon said sole, at the same time forc-.

ing said cord into upper securing position, and then inserting afastening to secure said cord and said upper in the position to whichthey have been brought during said stretching operation.

2. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a last an upper and a sole, effecting a step-bysteplasting operation by successively engaging said upper by means of alasting tool, over the upper engaging end of which a cord is laid, andstretching said upper over the last intolasted position upon said sole,whereby said cord is brought into upper securing position simultaneouslywith the upper stretching operation, and then permanently securing saidupper in lasted position by a staple inserted through said upper intosaid sole in position to hold said cord.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a last an upper and a sole, wipingthe upper down theside of the last, and forcing'the angle of the upper into the anglebetween the last and the sole margin, forcing a cord into said anglesimultaneously with the Wiping of the upper and the forcing ofthe upperinto the said angle, and then inserting a fastening to secure the upperand said cord.

4t. That improvement in the artof making shoes which consists inassembling an upper and a sole upon a last, effecting in a step-by-stepmanner the stretching of the upper over the last and the forcing of theangle of the upper into lasted relation to the sole, inserting afastening in said angle to secure the upper inlasted position, andduring the stretching of the upper and the forcing of the angle of theupper into lasted relation to the sole forcing into said angle auxiliaryfastening means into position to cooperate with said first-mentionedfastening means.

5. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling an upper and a sole upon a last, turning out the margin ofthe upper, engaging said upper by means of a lasting tool, wiping itdown the side of the last and forcing the angle of the upper into theangle between the last and the sole margin, and leading a cord acrossthe end of said lasting tool before said wiping and stretchingoperations in such relation to said tool that said cord is forced intosaid angle simultaneously with the wiping of the upper and the forcingof the angle of the upper into the angle between the last and the solemargin, then securing the upper in lasted position by fastening meansinserted in said angle in position to: secure said cord in said angle.

6. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a last an upper and a sole, effecting a step-bysteplasting operation by manipulations of the upper including forcingsuccessive portions of the upper into lasted relation to the sole,forcing a cord into upper securing positi on by a tool 'over the upperengaging end of which the cord is laid, and inserting an upper securingfastening in such relation to the cord as to prevent the head of the fastening from pulling through the upper.

' 7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists inassembling upon a last an upper and a sole, effecting a step-bysteplasting operation by forcing successive portions of the angle of theupper into lasted relation to the sole, at the same time forcing a cordinto upper securing position in said angle by a tool over the upperengaging surface of which the cord is laid, and then fastening said cordby an upper securing fastening.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLIAM J. KELLY.

copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of 'Patenta, Washington, D. G.

